EXPLORING THE RISE OF AGAVE SPIRITS WITH IVÁN SALDAÑA
- Ioanna Papafili
- Mar 26
- 5 min read
Updated: Mar 27
We’re excited to share a special highlight from a recent masterclass held a couple of months ago at Barro Negro Athens. Thanks to Granical, we had the privilege of hosting one of the most exceptional personalities in the agave industry.
We also had the chance to sit down for a brief interview, so sit back, relax, and enjoy.
Until next time
Ioanna: What’s your opinion on the rising popularity of agave spirits?
Iván: I see it as a positive trend, but one that comes with significant challenges. The global success of agave spirits has outpaced solutions for sustainability, raw material sourcing, and waste management. For example, with mezcal, there are concerns about how agave is cultivated, how waste is managed, and whether profits are fairly distributed across the supply chain. Many early success stories in agave spirits lacked structured plans to mitigate these issues.
However, the rise of agave spirits also presents an environmental advantage. Agave thrives in arid conditions and doesn’t require irrigation, making it a sustainable alternative to crops like sugarcane, which suffer in areas with water scarcity. In Mexico, former sugarcane fields have turned into a desert due to water depletion, but agave can flourish there. So while I see the industry’s growth as positive, we need proper infrastructure and sustainable planning to ensure long-term success.
Ioanna: What would you say to someone who isn’t a fan of agave spirits? How would you convince them to give it a try?
Iván: I truly believe there’s an agave spirit for everyone! Many people who think they don’t like it simply haven’t found the right one yet. The diversity in agave spirits is incredible, ranging from bright and fresh profiles to deep, smoky, and complex expressions.
When someone tells me they don’t like agave spirits, I first ask them what they do enjoy in a drink. Do they prefer lighter, citrusy flavors, or do they gravitate towards richer, oak-aged spirits? Once I understand their preferences, I can recommend an agave spirit that aligns with their palate. It’s all about exploring the range of flavors available and finding the right fit.
Ioanna: What inspired you to enter the agave industry? Were there any mentors who influenced you?
Iván: Absolutely. One of my biggest mentors was Thomas Estes. I originally pursued a career in academia and earned my PhD, but I found myself drawn to the spirits industry. While working in London, I met Thomas as he was launching Tequila Ocho. His deep respect for terroir and his meticulous approach to tequila production fascinated me. We connected immediately, and he became a mentor and a friend. He had a unique perspective, coming from the bar world, while my background in biology and academia shaped how I saw spirits. His generosity in sharing knowledge opened many doors for me.
Another figure I deeply admire is Jaime Muñoz, the founder of Los Danzantes and Alipús. He was one of the first entrepreneurs to promote the concept of village mezcal, helping to bring small-scale, traditional producers into the global spotlight. In the early 1990s, when mezcal was barely recognized outside Mexico, he was already traveling the world, educating people and championing its rich heritage. Without his work, I and many others might not have entered the industry the way we did.
Ioanna: From a technical perspective, what makes tequila and mezcal so extraordinary?
Iván: It all comes down to the raw material—agave. That’s what makes these spirits truly unique. Unlike grains used in whiskey or grapes in wine, agave provides sugar in an unusual way - it must be cooked before fermentation, which creates an incredible range of flavors, from deep caramelized notes to herbal and floral elements.
Mezcal, in particular, has an additional layer of complexity because it is often wild-fermented. This means that it’s not just yeast at work; a whole ecosystem of bacteria and microorganisms contribute to the fermentation process. This can create tropical flavors like pineapple and mango, funky and lactic notes, or even sharper, more acidic tones. Unlike spirits that rely heavily on barrel aging or added botanicals, mezcal’s depth comes entirely from the plant, the terroir, the cooking method, and the fermentation process.
Additionally, traditional mezcal production involves roasting the agave in underground pits, infusing the spirit with smoky flavors. This means you’re tasting not only the terroir of the plant but also the influence of the water and the hands of the maker. That’s what makes agave spirits so extraordinary.
Ioanna: What advice would you give to someone who wants to explore agave spirits or enter the industry?
Iván: The best way to learn is to trust your own palate. So much of brand perception is shaped by marketing and external influences, but true understanding comes from experiencing flavors firsthand. That’s why I always encourage blind tasting—it removes bias and helps you appreciate a spirit for what it truly is.
Understanding the different types of mezcal is also important. Some are deeply rooted in family traditions, reflecting generations of knowledge and craftsmanship. Others are more experimental, created by individual distillers with a particular vision. There are also mezcals designed for specific uses, such as those made for cocktails. Learning about these distinctions helps you develop a more comprehensive appreciation of agave spirits.
The key is to stay open-minded and focus on the spirit itself rather than trends or marketing narratives. Explore different styles, take notes on what you enjoy, and don’t be afraid to challenge your own preconceptions.
Ioanna: Can you share a fun fact about your journey?
Iván: When I was doing my PhD in England, I was researching how agave survives in harsh environments. To study it properly, I had to import live agave plants from Mexico, which was incredibly complicated. Once they arrived, I essentially became a gardener, carefully nurturing them in a greenhouse and trying to help them recover from the stress of being uprooted and flown across the Atlantic.
At some point, my research caught media attention, and suddenly, I had major UK outlets like BBC and ITV News wanting to interview me. For a week, I felt like a rockstar - I was in my white lab coat, talking passionately about agave biology and its fascinating survival mechanisms.
But then, the actual news segment aired. I was excited to watch it, but to my surprise, they barely included any of my scientific explanations. Instead, the footage quickly cut to people taking shots in a bar! I was frustrated at the time—I had spent years researching this plant, and they reduced it to a drinking cliché.
Looking back, though, it’s funny. I initially saw agave through an academic lens, but life had other plans. I ended up not just studying agave but fully embracing it in the world of spirits. It’s a reminder that sometimes, even when you think you’re heading in one direction, life takes you exactly where you’re meant to be.
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